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On the Road with FT: Recipes from Kavala

From Eftychis (FT) Bletsas, for About.com

Cuttlefish in Wine - Greek food photos

Cuttlefish with onions and wine

Photo © Prosenghisi

Kavala, in Greek: Καβάλα, pronounced kah-VAH-lah:

Kavala is located in Northern Greece, east of Salonica, on the sea across from the island of Thasos. It is a pretty, small town, capital of the Kavala prefecture, and the principal seaport of Eastern Macedonia.

Although fishing has always been a tradition, apart from seafood dishes, I encountered some really good ones with meat. These are the dishes I had the pleasure of trying in Kavala.

Soupies Krasates - Cuttlefish with Red Wine:

In Greek: σουπιές κρασάτες, pronounced soop-YES krah-SAH-tess

Recipe

Classic Greek recipes for cuttlefish call for spinach or a red tomato sauce; however, in Kavala they are cooked in way that reminds me of a typical French recipe: red wine, onions and bay leaves. I find this combination exceptional, although surprising, since this combination of tastes is most often found in recipes for beef or rabbit.

Cuttlefish can be found fresh in the seafood shops of Kavala this time of the year (spring). At other times, they can be bought frozen. Frozen cuttlefish are fine but not as tasty and tender when cooked, although fresh require longer cooking time.

Cuttlefish either need as little cooking as 3-4 minutes (grilled or fried) or longer slow cooking, like we did with this recipe. We cooked them in slow heat for about 90 minutes. Anything in between will make them hard and chewy.

I found them nice and tender; the sweetness of the onion complemented the taste of the cooked wine and the bitter bay.

We used local wine. The surrounding area is famous for its wine.

Kouzou Dolma - Stuffed Whole Baby Lamb with Bulgur:

In Greek: κουζού ντολμά, pronounced koo-ZOO dol-MAH

Recipe

As you probably know, lamb is eaten all around Greece on Easter day. In most places the whole lamb is roasted (like a huge kebab) on charcoals. However, in many places and especially in the islands, lamb is cooked in different ways, often stuffed in the oven. In Nea Karvali, a small village near Kavala, I made an old recipe for lamb stuffed with bulgur, liver, mushrooms, and spring onions.

We first made the stuffing by sautéing the ingredients, then we cooked the stuffed meat in the wood oven. The bulgur was amazing with all those different tastes combined. The aroma of the spices and the juices of the meat turned the starchy bulgur into an first class gastronomic experience.

Koulakli Manti - Minced Meat Dumplings:

In Greek: κουλακλί μαντί, pronounced koo-lahk-LEE mahn-DEE

Recipe

This is another stuffed dish originating in the East. Greek refugees from Turkey last century brought a whole cuisine culture with them. One of those exceptional dish was this one that I made with a kind old lady in a small village near Kavala. We made a pastry dough - not too thin (1-2mm) - and cut it in 3X3 inch squares. We stuffed each piece with a filling made of browned minced beef, onion, parsley, and eggs.

The filling process was a prime time! We used our hands to produce small purses, which were then baked in the oven.

Before serving we poured beef stock over the baking pan, something that softened and added flavor to the filled purses. The result was exceptional and rewarding. Served with chilled yogurt and garlic sauce is the classic way to enjoy it. The temperature contrast reveals the rich flavor of the beef and adds to the dish a generous hint of originality.

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