Corfu (Kerkyra), in Greek: Κέρκυρα, pronounced KEHR-kee-rah:
My trip to Corfu was a great pleasure. People there are full of joy and talk in a lilting rhythmic way, reminding me of our Italian neighbors. Corfu has so many things in common with Italy that it comes as no surprise that pasta is a main part of their diet. However, the cuisine of Corfu seems endless, with a wide variety of traditional dishes and cooking methods.
I had the chance to see some of the most traditional Corfiot dishes being home cooked in the kitchens of Corfiot moms. I guess this is probably the only way to get to the secrets of a regional cuisine.
Pastitsatha - Pasta with Meat, Poultry, or Seafood:
In Greek: παστιτσάδα, pronounced pah-steet-SAH-thah (hard "th")
This is the most popular Corfiot dish. It is served at formal dinners and celebrations and can be ordered in all local taverns and restaurants. It is made with meat cooked in a thick tomato sauce with loads of spices and seasoning, served with thick pasta (the same ziti type pasta used in making pastitsio). It is generally made either with beef or rooster (mostly in the villages).
Under the guidance of a traditional Corfiot mom, I cooked a farm-raised rooster (with a strong, distinctive taste) in a flavorful tomato sauce, mixed it with pasta, and served with grated kefalotyri (a sharp white cheese). The sauce's main ingredients were chopped garlic, onion, parsley, cinnamon, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and cumin.
Bourtheto - Fish in a Spicy Red Sauce:
In Greek: μπουρδέτο, pronounced boor-THEH-toh
This is probably the most interesting way to have fish on the island. It's cooked with onions in a red and hot sauce which, at the end, is quenched with fresh lemon juice.
It can be made with any of several kinds of fish including tope (a type of shark also known as flake), cod (haddock) fillets (desalted) or scorpion fish, like the one I cooked in a Corfiot mom's kitchen.
I found the fish to be tender, and the sauce as interesting as it sounds: spicy, with a touch of sweetness from the onions and sourness from the lemon. Given a choice, I believe the scorpion fish is, indeed, the best to use in this dish. There are black and red scorpion fish and the black ones are supposed to taste better.
Sykomaïtha - Spiced Figs:
In Greek: συκομαϊδα, pronounced see-ko-ma-EE-thah (hard "th")
Made from chopped dried figs mixed with pepper, fennel, ouzo, cloves, and aniseed. The mixture is formed into meatball shaped pieces, wrapped in fig leaves, and tied with string. The parcels are cooked at low temperature or, more traditionally, dried in the sun. Sykomaïtha can be eaten on its own as a dessert or dried fruit. It has really strong bitter-sweet taste which makes it an excellent accompaniment for ouzo.
Sofrito - Beef in a White Wine Sauce:
In Greek: σοφρίτο, pronounced so-FREE-toh
This is a *must* try for a visitor in the island... which means a *must cook* for me. I traveled about 30 minutes north from the city of Corfu to find the right person to teach me this recipe: a veteran professional local cook. Sofrito is thinly sliced fried beef with a white sauce made of finely chopped garlic, parsley, and white wine. It's served with rice or potatoes.
Bourou-Bourou Soup (or Kolopimpiri) - Pasta & Vegetable Soup:
In Greek: μπούρου-μπούρου, pronounced BOO-roo BOO-roo
An easy one-pot pasta dish. Everything is cooked together in a large pot. I would call it homemade fast food, using any ingredients available in the kitchen. The locals say they usually mix all leftover pasta, something that requires a bit of attention to cooking times. The one I tried was made only with spaghetti cut in small pieces and boiled with vegetables.
Tsitsibira - Ginger beer:
In Greek: τσιτσιμπίρα, pronounced tsee-tsee-BEE-rah
In addition to these recipes, I had the opportunity to taste tsitsibira (ginger beer). It is a well-known Corfiot beverage that is made (and found) nowhere else in Greece. It is made from fresh lemon juice, ground ginger, water, and sugar by a small family industry of the island. Tasty and refreshing, it is best served ice cold.