In Greek, the word "gyro" (γύρο, say: YEE-roh) means "turn" or "revolution," and that's just what this fabulous cone of pork does on an upright rotisserie grill. While other versions of gyro are similar to the Turkish döner kebap or the Middle Eastern shawarma which are made with lamb and/or beef (sometimes ground), goat, or, chicken, this version is made with thin slices of pork stacked in a gyro cone.

Gyro sandwiches (shortened to just "gyro") are made to order. "The works" include tzatziki or plain thick yogurt, tomatoes, onions, a healthy helping of gyro meat, and french fries, wrapped in pita bread. The result is often a sandwich so big that it requires a plan of attack! Gyro is a favorite street food, grabbed on the run, and many streetside gyro shops have tiny tables set out on the sidewalk for those who have a moment to sit.

To get the inside story on exactly how this version of Greek gyro and gyro sandwiches are made, step by step, I visited a local expert. My little village is too small to have a place that specializes in gyro, but the next village up the mountain is home to Bobby Bounakis... a real pro. Bobby not only knows the secrets, but he is also a firm believer in keeping things simple - using the best ingredients, and doing just enough to them to enhance the flavor, not hide it. Bobby was kind enough to let me follow him around as we took photos of the full process, from making the huge cone of gyro meat to creating his delicious gyro sandwich.

If you just can't live without this (or other) gyro, keep in mind that a vertical rotisserie grill can be pretty pricey; however, Cruftbox says you can make your own. It appears to work...

Learn how the pros make Greek gyro with these step-by-step photos - and for those who want a simple way to make Greek gyro at home:

• Homemade Greek Gyro

The recipe is for pork gyro, but it can also be made with beef, lamb, or chicken.

_{Photos © Jim Stanfield}

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